Interview: Shirley Boylan

It’s easy to think that our Scottish produce is the most important thing in the food industry, but you can’t forget about the many people that are behind the scenes in Scottish restaurants and businesses!

I caught up with chef Shirley Boylan to talk about her career and the industry.

At what age did you know you wanted to be a chef?

I knew as early as primary 6 as it was a huge interest and a talent of mine, but my mum says it was from the age of 3! I was always keen to see what she was doing in the kitchen and asked loads of questions.

How did you get started with your career?

I helped in the kitchen at home with my mum, baked, did summer fete baking competitions as a child, and by the start of high school I used to come home from school cook the family. My mum said I was a better cook and she used to let me get on with it or I’d help. It got to the point that my friends got me into their houses to cook and pretend that they’d cooked it!

I went to Kirkcaldy technical college to do basic food modules for one year; and I actually won student of the year for that course!

That summer term I worked at Pettycur Bay Caravan Park in the café.

I then went back to college to do City and Guilds 706/2 food for a year and through a placement I got a job in The Woodside Hotel in Aberdour at weekends. My CV was a steady consistent progression from then.

Far too many people leave college and think they can be head chefs or sous chefs, but they don’t start from the bottom and work their way up gradually learning. Perhaps TV glamorise it.

What restaurants have you cooked in?

The Dean Park Hotel, Kirkcaldy as a commis chef
Dunniker House Hotel, Kirkcaldy as a commis chef to chef de partie
Balbirnie House Hotel, Markinch as a commis chef, chef de partie then senior chef de partie
Cameron House Hotel, Loch Lomond as a chef de partie, then worked up to senior chef de partie, fine dining kitchen sous chef, second chef to the executive chef
Loch Torridon Hotel, Torridon as second/ sous chef to the head chef (who was a boyfriend of mine at the time)
Balmoral Hotel, Edinburgh as a sous chef in fine dining kitchen. After having my first child I worked two days a week and floated wherever I was needed in the whole kitchen.

Do you specialise in any particular type of cooking?

I like cooking good food/fine dining particularly game, fish and shellfish.

What restaurant are you working in right now?

Head chef, The Woll golf club, Ashkirk, Scottish Borders.

Where do you see yourself in 10 years?

I’m 47 years old so I would hope I’m not still slogging away doing catering hours/weekend and evening work, but over the next while as I’m a mum I have to consider my two children and see Ryan (due to start high school after summer holidays) through high school and whatever he decides to do. Karina is in primary 3 at present so I’ll see her through primary and high school as well.

I may stay at golf club but may change or dive into food hygiene with a view of better hours/life over next 20 years.

Where would be your dream place to work?

I have always wanted my own wee business café/small type of place not fine dining or a pub.

Or living a totally mad life on a tropical Island cooking beautiful fish dishes outside, eating fresh fruit and living a normal health life!

Do you think Scottish cooking is gaining importance?

I think it’s come along way which is great but it’s not across the whole population. As world trends have changed over the last 20 years, more produce has become available, and people are trying more things and now travel more.

Another factor is a very large percentage of the population eat similar types of dishes: fish n chips, mince and tatties, pies, sausage and mash, fry ups, even cheap frozen food. There is a small percentage of people who eat better and appreciate the fine foods.

Life styles have changed massively over the last 20 years, with women working more and no longer just being housewives, and therefore people are busier and that has an effect on most people’s standard of living.

Places like Spain and France very much have their own food culture, whereas Scotland doesn’t so much have this. Do you think it’s important to promote our own produce and food industry?

Yes very much so as Scotland in general has a lot to offer as well as fine foods- game, fish, shellfish, and smoked products. We’re also getting some interesting cheese producers too.

It’s a very different culture in France, Spain and Italy, as their culture base is so much stronger from birth. There’s a great emphasis on the whole family eating beautiful quality food together. The French have a pure love and understanding of food, cooking and eating, and they will pay very good money to eat out.

The Scottish food industry should keep promoting itself. There has to be a huge influence into Scottish culture from birth to schools. To make this all come together the government needs to get on board and stop cutbacks on society in order to see that a new bright future needs guidance and investment.

How important do you think it is that people shop at local businesses?

We all shop at Tesco/Asda due to price and convenience, but it is still very important to shop at local businesses. Our local little shops will never survive if we don’t! If people actually just had a browse they would be amazing at what different things you can find and learn!

Food festivals like the Royal Highland Show are great for promoting our produce.

If you could give one piece of advice to a young chef, what would it be?

Be sure you want a career in catering/cooking.
Study either through a full time college course or work and train in the job at the same time- this way you gain the work experience at the same time as studying one day a week. It’s hard but a very good way to go!
Work hard and work your way up gradually. It will pay off in the long term and make you a better chef.
Decide what sort of chef you are or wants to be, ie. bar chef, good food, fine dining, pastry etc. Have a plan or path on how to get there.
But most importantly: work hard, be happy and always enjoy what you do and aim high!

What is your personal favourite food? Don’t be embarrassed to say something like macaroni!

I like fusion/ Thai cooking, and I love fine foods such as shellfish, foie gras, game and cheese. But I also like mince and tatties, stews and spag bol!